SRW Yamaha RD 350

This is not a manual, just some help when you are reassembling your RD 350. Part I shows how to put the engineblock together and part II will show how to mount the cylinders and head. The red areas on pictures are not standard. The pics are from the reassembly of the SRW race engine, which has no oilpump or kick.

To start with after you have disassembled your engine, you should clean and check everything. When cleaning, do not use a metal-scraper because it is easy to destroy the aluminium surface. Use a plastic scraper, a cloth and some cleaning compound.
The next step is to put the gearbox and the crank into the block. First make sure that the gears and the crank is in good condition. The green arrowed seal is put in backwards in this picture, so I had to take it out and turn it around after I took this pic. When you put on the seals use some grease on them - it will make them last longer and seal better. Always use new crankseals!!!!! Make sure the gearbox fits correctly into the selector fork fingers (arrowed yellow). Also make sure that the locating pins on crank are positioned correctly (arrowed blue). If you use other bearings, SKF, FAG or other, make sure you lock them in some way. Don't forget the half-rings (arrowed pink, one is a full-ring). If you use the kick-starter (which I don't) you have a gear on the red circle.
	Check that everything looks ok, and then put a thin layer of gasket-silicon on both block-halves. Put the blocks together and tighten upper bolts 9-16 to 5 Nm using a torque wrench. You can put copper-paste on bolts to make torque more accurate and protect bolts from rust. Then lower bolts 1-8 to10 Nm Next 1-8 to 26 Nm and finally bolts 9-16 to 11 Nm.
So, you have now the blocks together. Put in the gear selector mechanism (blue arrow) and check that it works. Don't forget the green arrowed piece. After this you just put the clutch in place.
	(At the yellow arrow) First goes a thrust washer, then clutch drum, then the inner bush, then the second thrust washer followed by the clutch centre, next the tab washer and finally the securing nut which you tighten to 65 Nm (pink arrow), lock nut with tab washer. (Tighten nut at circled pink arrow to 65 Nm if you haven't already done that).
Check that the clutch plain plates are flat, and that the frictionplates are ok (they should be about 1,2 mm thick). Before installation, put some transmission oil on all plates. To avoid imbalance arrange clutch plain plates like this =>. The rubber rings are not necessary. If you don't use them the clutch will work better so I recommend that you don't use them.
	Make sure that one of the arrows on the clutch cover lines up with the arrow mark on the clutch centre. Fit the springs and bolts, tighten them evenly and progressively.
Install the alternator stator assembly in the casing-recess. If you have a tuned engine you might gain some bhp by advancing the ignition. You do this by filing the mounting holes a little and then tilting the stator assembly (arrowed red). BUT you should try the effect of advancing ignition on a dyno, most engines will lose power by changing ignition timing. With a SRW designed cylinder head you gain about 5 bhp by advancing ignition. Next you fit the woodruff key in the crankshaft slot, then offer up the rotor, fit the plain and spring washers, lock the crankshaft and secure the rotor nut to 85 Nm.

Next is fitting the cylinders, you can read about that in part II (not ready yet).